ALICANTE

Once the provincial landing pad for package sun-seekers on their way to Benidorm, Alicante is now asserting itself as a cultural and recreational centre of the Costa Blanca. It is the Blanca's capital after all. The surrounding countryside offers visitors a great deal - mountains, forests and castles towering on hilltops. Of course there are also the numerous beaches and maritime towns close by.

The compact town centre is a 15-minute taxi ride or 40-minute bus journey from the airport. The renovating and constant construction process, which seems to be synonymous with many Spanish coastal tourist havens, makes for a stark eyeful as you approach the town. But the palm tree-lined broad avenues and promenades make up for the less than impressive first impressions!

At the initial sight of Alicante's outer shell, the word "charming" certainly wouldn't spring to any traveler's mind, in contrast to tourism literature! Yet considering its one of Spain's most significant provincial economic centres the nucleus of Alicante contains unexpected spots of impressive architecture and urban quaintness.

Alicante's old town (el barrio) is nestled beyond the El Cortes Ingles stores, scaffolding and cranes and there's evidence of a rich and varied history behind what is now home to 300,000 people.

The town treasures an ancient history stretching back to pre-historic times. The archaeological museum proudly displays remains dating back to the third millennium BC. Alicante pulls in the history fans with tales of its former life as a Roman municipium of Lucentum, before it matured into a Spanish city in the late 1400s.

Old Alicante's most impressive architectural achievement is the imposing Castillo de Santa Bárbara. One of Europe's largest standing medieval fortresses; it perches atop the summit of the 166 metre high Benacantil mountain. The pale-coloured stone looks as if the fortress is a spectacular carving from the rock itself or a giants sand castle! Inside you can see three eras of the one building encompassing the 9th to 18th centuries. It's easily accessible to everyone by lift up through the mountain from Jovellanas Avenue . It is worth the excursion for the great view of the city, nearby craggy mountains and the Med, and for a ramble among the ruins.

For more history go Alicante's oldest church, St Mary, built over the ruins of a main mosque from previous Moorish rule. The gothic style Iglesia dates back to the 14th century and today looks in need of repair. The exterior is understated, but take time to sit on a bench in the small, serene square in front to admire the worn architecture whose backdrop is the castle.

Bringing you back to more recent times Alicante's 18th century palatial homes are dotted around. Check out the Berenguer de Marquina and Maisonnave along Calle de Labradores for displays of wealth and nobility.
If you're still eager for more of Alicante's past times, take in ruins of St Ferdinand Castle, Concathedral of Saint Nicholas of Bari, and the bullring, which is one Spain's oldest still in use.

The harbour provides a contrast to the apartment blocks and dusty old town. It is here where the tourists and party seekers head for obvious entertainment. Its sanitised tidiness seems characterless but there is no doubt that the view of the rows of gleaming yachts and dainty dinghies bobbing on the azure water is a wonderful refresher from the Meds summer heat. Stroll along the walkways, relax in cafes, or boogie through the night in clubs and bars. Word of warning: do watch out for pickpockets at this popular tourist spot.

A ferry departs from the harbour for day trips to the island of Tabarca, where automobiles are banned and you can sample traditional fishermen's cuisine. It was once a refuge for pirates, an 18th century fortified town and settling ground for Italian fishermen!

The best beach in the area is San Juan - a 10-minute bus ride from Alicante 's centre. You will find 5km of white sand and plenty of cafes, bars and hotels.

If the serenity of the harbour isn't enough for you, hop on a local train at the main RENFE station and head for nearby Elx. Thirty minutes and 1.50 Euros later, you will find Europe's biggest palm tree plantation listed as World Heritage.
Gaudis Barcelona it isn't, but Alicante serves as an experience off the Costa Blancas beaten down tourist trail and offers a glimpse into life in one of Spain 's smaller destinations. It is perfect for a long weekend, not to mention great choices for eating out and letting your hair down without melting your credit card.

Alicante is small enough to go everywhere by foot - slowly! The pace of life in the town is a delicious break from the madness of other holiday destinations. You've got variety on your doorstep and the locals are friendly and will happily chat - whether or not you speak the lingo!